by Ms SNIPs

Our hair is the most unique hair in the world due to the rich and varied racial makeup that exists within a person of color. Yet it is this wonderful difference that can make finding a stylist in certain areas of the country or the world that can properly address the needs of our hair a challenge. Our hair is perceived as difficult, when in reality it is simply different.

Hair is hair is hair, made up of the same proteins and cells. The difference lies in the shape of the hair follicle and the density of the layers of the hair strand. Because of this difference, in many ways, our hair is at odds with the European ideal of what is considered a normal styling and care method.

For instance, generally speaking, African American hair

• Is easier to comb when wet or damp and can break easily when dry
• Is spongy which equals a healthy texture; notice how many products say healthy hair feels like silk?
• In its natural state, has as a sheen, not a shine; notice how product marketing says healthy hair is supposed to shine?

Our hair is very versatile, but tends to be fragile and therefore needs special care and pampering if it is to look its best. Afro hair is almost always curly, although the amount of curl varies enormously. Afro textured hair can be brittle and has a tendency to split and break. This is because our sebaceous glands sometimes produce smaller amounts of sebum to moisturize the hair. In addition, because our hair is tightly curled, the sebum is unable to travel downwards to condition it naturally. If the curl forms kinks, this makes the hair thinner, which can be weaker at each bend. Still other types of black hair can be very fine with additional challenges.

If the hair suffers from excessive dryness, choose a product formulation that replaces the natural oils that can sometimes be lacking in African American and Ethnic hair. If the product is massaged in daily, or whenever necessary, the hair will become more manageable with improved condition and shine. It is also important to deep condition the hair regularly.
While a No Oil routine will be best for some, those whose hair benefits from oil will find that 100% Emu Oil is an excellent natural dry hair treatment that can be used daily on dry hair and with washing. After washing, mix a small amount of Emu Oil in with your regular cream conditioner. You will see an improvement with just one treatment. Emu Oil can be used alone or with any cream conditioner. Use a heating cap for more penetrating hot oil treatment.

Sometimes we use relaxers in hopes of making our hair more manageable (manageability being subjective) because they are used to loosen the curl. Unfortunately they can cause more damage than help. There are currently two classifications of relaxers in use - lye based (sodium hydroxide) and no-lye (calcium or guanidine hydroxide). Relaxers de-fat the scalp and permanently alter the structure of the hair and scalp. This compounds the problem of dry hair and breakage since the hair is stripped of natural emollients and less resilient than untreated hair. Never use relaxers on damaged hair. Never use relaxers on hair previously treated with cold wave products (Jheri Curl, Wave Noveau, etc.) or vise versa. Allow the hair to grow out before changing chemical services.

Another breed of relaxers called demi perms enable tight curls to be replaced by larger, looser ones. Demi-perms are usually used on short hair, giving a controlled shape to short cuts; on long hair they produce a loose spiral curl look. The more advanced perms involve softening the hair by weaving it onto rollers and then neutralizing it so that the curls are permanently set into their new shape. To prevent frizzies and maintain the definition of curls, special lotions called curl activators and moisturizing sprays are used to revive and preserve curl formation.

If we don’t want to deal with our own hair or want a straight look for a while on natural hair, weaves can offer an alternative. Hair weaving and braiding is a great way to wear straight and curly hair styles without harsh chemicals. Weave hair can be braided or bonded onto natural hair or chemically treated hair. Hair weaves can spare our hair the trauma of harsh chemical service and the problems associated with it - hair loss and breakage.
Be aware of the problem of Traction Hair Loss, a problem associated with improper hair weaving and braiding. This happens when the hair is pulled too forcibly too often which will disrupt the hair follicles, cause scar tissue to form and, ultimately, hair loss. To help prevent this, avoid braiding or pulling the hair into tight braids. Similar problems can also result from misusing perms and relaxing chemicals. Weaving hair manufacturers are now producing weaving hair specifically for Afro textured hair. Yaki hair is an excellent texture and color match for our hair. Other types of hair can also be blended with our hair for a natural look.

Tips to keep African American and Ethnic hair beautiful

• Use a wide-toothed Afro-comb for curly hair and a natural bristle brush for relaxed hair. Combing will help spread the natural oils through the hair, making it look shinier and healthier. Use intensive pre-shampoo treatments.
• Massage the scalp regularly to encourage oil production.
• Shampoo as often as you feel necessary but only lather once, using a small amount of shampoo. Rinse thoroughly. Towel-blot, don?t rub hair.
• Once a month try a hot oil treatment, which will lubricate dry scalp conditions as well as moisturize brittle hair.
• If you have a delicate fringe (bangs) or baby fine hair around the hairline (sometimes from breakage, sometimes an inherited trait), use tiny round bristly and a hairdryer to blend this hair.
• Gels are good for molding hair into shape; choose non-greasy formulas that give hair a healthy sheen.
• If you use hot combs or curling tongs, make sure you shield the hair by using a finishing spray.
• Braided hair needs a softening shampoo that maintains the moisture balance and helps eliminate dry scalp.